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IRAN |

Red Ink Run: Iraq and a hard place

You can feel the tension in the Iranian town of Piranshahr. Here the police are more alert and better armed than in the rest of the country. They maintain a larger buffer around themselves, keeping locals at arm’s length in the crowded market places and the chaotic streets. This region contains a majority Kurdish population [...]

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IRAN |

In Mashhad there are no schedules

Meet Vali. Vali – homestay proprietor, carpet merchant, tour guide, polyglot, and all-round awesome guy – is the reason I stayed in the north-east Iranian town of Mashhad for four days instead of one. Mashhad is the second-largest city in Iran, boasting three million people and the second-holiest site in Shia Islam. For this reason [...]

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IRAN |

Camping in the Kaluts

After a week or more stuck in cities – charming as they were – I was really keen to get out of the sightseeing loop and go do something a bit more adventurous than walk through a museum. After Shiraz, the next destination on my itinerary was the south-eastern town of Kerman which I was [...]

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IRAN |

Esfahan, Yazd and Shiraz: some piccies

These three large central-Iranian cities form somewhat of a golden triangle for visitors to the country. Full of tick-the-box must-see sights, they may not have the charm of other activity-based (rather than attraction-based) destinations around Iran but they should be on every visitor’s itinerary. Esfahan Truly a global city that deserves to be mentioned in [...]

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IRAN |

A day in the desert

On my third day in Esfahan I was sitting in the hotel courtyard with the Lonely Planet trying to map out the rest of my trip. My rough plan after Esfahan was Shiraz, Kerman, Yazd, Mashhad, Kashan, and then back to Tehran for my flight out of Iran. However, this left me with a few [...]

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IRAN |

Zam Zam Slam

So, I got the hell out of Tehran. There’s still loads more there I’d like to see but I needed to get out of the big city and get somewhere calmer, and I’ve scheduled two days to finish off the capital at the end of the trip. One overnight bus later I was in the [...]

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IRAN |

Just an ordinary Tehran day

Seriously, in just three days the people of Iran have won the friendliest, most generous nationality on earth competition. Hands down.

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IRAN |

First Iran-pressions

Scott Bridges has finally arrived in Tehran!

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